The best bouldering day yet!

I've started visiting Targasonne a time ago, maybe I did it 5 times since summer has finished. As usual there have been some good days, bad days, regular ones....
Since then I've done Abomination 7C, L'oeil du voisin 7C, Psoas hole 8A+ and Erotomecanics sit 8A+. But this weekend was really memorable.

Despite the bad whether forecast we went to Pyrenees. There were 4 of us this time, Pep aka "El loko", Nick aka "Yankee", Nuria aka "Bloquera imparable" and me. As soon as we arrived everyone went warming up. I didn't want to waste time so I made a fast ascent of Bob's your uncle 7C. Very nice compression problem, a bit morphologic and with scary top out.
Straight after I went to try once again my project La Théorie du Chaos 8B, for me the best problem in Targasonne, not very physical but requieres technic and mental endurance (in my case). So after trying the upper part I did it easily, took a rest and in two tries finished the whole problem!!! My second 8B...hope the progress won't stop this winter ;).

After I went to see my friends...but still didn't feel tired. There were lots of things in my head I wanted to try. Psoas boulder in Dolmens sector was the final choice as I already did one of the problems. I gave a couple of tries to Psoas mole, felt good as I did all the moves but didn't feel to be able to gather them all. So the direct central version became the target...after a while the humidity became a problem and I was slipping of the crimps and on my last try (I told myself it's the last as it was getting dark) I managed to do all the moves. 8B and 8A+ in one day!!! NOT BAD ;)

The next day we went to Taz for warming up...after some time I decided to check Zdabauw, did the first move (there are 3 in total) but higher temperature and bad skin conditions cut me off from more tries. We went to try some easier things and I did a classic Nazgul 7C. After everyone but me kept climbing and we went back home tired with no skin but happy.

Thanks everyone for good company, support and spot ;). Finally everyone came back home with ascents, Nick and Pep with lots of 7B's and Nuria with 6C. Good job!

Here you have some photos and of course the video of ascents!



A perfect day in Targasonne from Alex Germanovych on Vimeo.

Un nuevo post...

Hace tiempo llevo sin actualizar el blog...no es que no hay mucho que poner, más bien es una cuestión de pereza ;).

Pues desde septiembre no he parado de escalar y ahora intentando combinar bloque y cuerda...cada vez cuesta más chapar y ser polivalente....pila pila pila y más pila falta para poder subir algo más de 10 metros. Y la verdad es que la cabeza sigue estando llena de proyectos en granito. Parece que las visita a Targasonne vuelven a ser frequentes ya que allí es donde se siente más fresquito.

Aquí tenéis fotos de las últimas salidas rockeras ;)

Abomination, 7C (V9) Targasonne from Alex Germanovych on Vimeo.

Y como cada año todos estamos invitados al OPEN DEL PIRI. Sin duda el open con el mejor ambiente, gran diversidad de bloque (prometen que habrán 50!!!) para todos y por su puesto butifarrada y risas, muchas risas! El cartel oficial y más info aquí:

http://www.facebook.com/events/445017118868300/?fref=ts

http://www.cevilassardemar.cat/webjoomla/index.php/template-layout/escalada/529-compe-de-bloc-2012

"One Summer In Paradise" the movie

After lots of hours of work and discussions here you have the movie about our summer trip around Switzerland and Austria.
Please don't hesitate to leave a tip ;)

"One Summer In Paradise" the movie from Alex Germanovych on Vimeo.

"One Summer in Paradise" Trailer

After a while I decide to post also here the trailer to our upcoming movie about almost everything we did last summer around Switzerland and Austria.

Can't really promise when the whole movie is finished...but not later then the 2012 ends ;).
Please enjoy.



"One Summer in Paradise" Trailer from Alex Germanovych on Vimeo.

More photos from the trip

Check out some of the best photos from the trip...they are much more. If you are interested in any of the pictures, the copyright is of Nora Grosse.

It's the END, it's the BEGINNING

It looks like it was yesterday or the day before when I left for the trip. Now it looks like nothing has happened, but I'm sure it's not true as I have great memories about thing passed, all the nice people I met, all the beautiful places I visited, thing I did and adventures we lived together with Nora.

Our last days in Silvretta was kind of luxereus ending of the bouldering trip. We stayed in the ski station at 1930 m high with light, electricity, water and even hot water!

Lots of project are left behind, as I just had no time to try harder thing and the conditions weren't the best. On our way down on the last days we met people making BBQ for everyone as an opening of the climbing season in Silvapark. As Austrian know how to organise these kind of accomplishments, the celebrity was present, Bernd Zangerl in person, explaining to the youngest boulderers how to do right.

On the way to Barcelona we made a short stop with 2 climbing days in Ceüse and we understood that after 3 months only bouldering the routes are too long and the 45 min. approach is too hard ;).
Later on the car stats licking and we had to ask for an assistance.

Here you have the photos of what we saw and did on the trip. Climbing photos a bit later, they take a bit of work.

Hope you like it...soon more to come and I promise nice climbing photos and a large climbing movie including some extra friki things we did.